Sunday, October 23, 2011

El Escorial & Valle de los Caídos.


On October 1st, I went on a day trip with the Vas-Wes Program to El Escorial, a palace-monastery about 30 miles northwest of Madrid. It was built under Felipe II during the second half of the sixteenth century, and according to my lit professor, it's the ultimate representation of Counter-reformation Spain. ...aaand I didn't get around to posting about it til now because I don't like any of the pictures I took (#photosnob) and also because Firefox has decided to be one giant glitchfest lately. I had to re-download Google Chrome so I could finish the post.

[photo: Wikipedia]

Palace entrance
There were CLOUDS in the sky! ...that's a big deal here
Pretty impresionante
I couldn't take pictures inside cus security at UNESCO World Heritage sites is always insane, but as usual, I did sneak a few. I really wish I could have taken pictures of El Panteón de los Reyes (Pantheon of Kings), where almost every single king and queen (but only the queens who bore an heir to the throne) are entombed. There are 26 coffins in total. You walk down this dark marble tunnel to get into the crypt, and emerge in a circular room with so much gold leaf, it glows. It's both beautiful and incredibly creepy.

[photo: Wikipedia]
Kings on the left, queens on the right
While we were in the crypt, whenever the tour guide would refer to a king, she would poit to his coffin and talk about him as if he were right there--which I guess he actually is (but just the bones, because there's another special crypt for the flesh to rot off of newer corpses. So gross, but 100% true). Entertaining and macabre...

In a fortuitous change of events, we weren't able to go into the basilica...because there was a WEDDING! We convinced the tour guide to let us watch the beginning of the procession, because it was clearly the wedding of some ridiculously rich people (all the women were wearing Royal Wedding hats!) I was a major creeper and took pictures of the little kids in the wedding party, because like all children in Spain, they were wearing the most adorable outfits EVER.
I almost kidnapped them all

The basilica

Lastly we stopped by the library, which had all its books arranged with the spines facing the back of the bookshelves, thus rendering it absolutely impossible to find anything. Spaniards are so delightfully illogical pretty much all of the time.

The ceiling was divided into 7 sections, each with paintings representing a different sect of knowledge (religion, grammar, math, etc.)

In front of El Escorial
Then came the best part of the day: FREE LUNCH. My high school gov teacher was wrong all those times he told us there is no such thing as a free lunch, because I get one on every excursión. (Okay, I guess I pay for it with my tuition, but that's not my money...I hope)

Walking to the restaurant
Did you know that Hong Kong is located in Spain?

Sam & Pepa
Per usual, I was so hungry I ate all my food before I remembered to take pictures of it (probably for the best; my food photography is dismal), but just picture about 2303890 fish croquettes (simultaneously disgusting and addicting) and a huge duck leg/wing/somethin'. It was my first time trying duck and I was pleasantly surprised! For dessert, there was something I thought was regular cheesecake, but it turned out to be evil cheesecake (aka, cheesecake made with bleu cheese). I ate it anyway because I am disgusting.

After dinner we lumbered back to the bus with uncomfortably full bellies and then headed to Valle de los Caídos (Valley of the Fallen), a monument/basilica erected by Franco (starting in 1940) to commemorate the lives of those lost in the Spanish Civil War. Today, it's very controversial because Franco forced Republican POWs to join the construction team, and many of them lost their lives as a result. A lot of people's host families were shocked that the program was taking us there, because they felt it has a cultural significance we can't understand--after all, tourists aren't allowed into the crypt which holds many bodies of those killed in the Guerra Civil. I understand where they're coming from, since I've never lived in a dictatorship and thus don't understand the gravity the Valle holds, but how will I ever learn if I don't visit it?


I immediately got chills.


Going into the basilica was about 23098 times creepier than going into the Pantheon of Kings earlier in the day, because there are two kinds of death: natural death and murder. The Pantheon was created to honor natural death. This basilica felt like it was created to honor murder, the murder of all the citizens of Spain who died under Franco's rule.

The interior of the basilica is cold and cavernous, with an eerie minimalism. As cheesy as it sounds, I felt like I was walking into Voldemort's lair or something.



The worst part was these 30 foot faceless metal angels
Franco is buried in the basilica, he essentially built the whole thing as a huge monument to himself--another reason why it's such a controversial location. It felt absolutely bizarre to stand at the foot of his grave and know that someone so horrible was just a few meters under my feet. As a small crowd grew around it and I wanted to leave, I hopped over the corner so as not to step on it, and one of the monitoras leaned over to me and said, "No tengas cuidado--¡písalo, písalo!" ("Don't be careful--stomp on it, stomp on it!")

I wonder who put those flowers there...
Behind that door lie 9 levels of crypts of those who died between 1936 & 1939 in the Guerra Civil
This was by far the shortest and most somber of our excursiones. I guess field trips can't always be filled with non-bleu cheesecake and devoid of reminders that Spain has a very dark recent history.

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Phrase of the day: viejo verde

Literal translation: green old person
Colloquial translation: dirty old man

"Odio que las calles de Madrid sean llenas de viejos verdes que me echan muchos piropos."

"I hate that the streets of Madrid are filled with dirty old men who always catcall me."
 In Spanish, green is the color related to sex (a revista verde is a dirty magazine, and a chiste verde is a dirty joke), so a pervy old dude is a viejo verde. And they are EVERYWHERE. I can't go a day without some disgusting pig old enough to be my grandfather sneering and calling me things like guapa (beautiful) or rubia (blondie...yeah, I don't get that one either).

I think I'm going to translate this pamphlet into Spanish and start shoving it in their faces:


Monday, October 17, 2011


I got an 8.45/10 on my most recent sociology exam! This is one of my direct enrollment classes (ie., a normal university class not designed for exchange students), so I'm realllll stoked on this. Spanish schools don't use letter grades, but this is about A level work!

It's nice to have a small victory like this when you've hit the mid-semester slump and are getting stressed and discouraged.

Monday, October 10, 2011

The ballet, the circus, and the Prado. And cupcakes. A lot of cupcakes.

Living in a foreign country and going to school in a foreign language is stressful. One night you might be given nothing but brussels sprouts and bacon for dinner; one morning you might have to inexplicably switch commuter trains and accidentally leave your folder (filled with homework and notes) on the seat next to you; one afternoon you might be informed by your sociology professor that you have to conduct a 14-page interview with not one, not two, but THREE illegal immigrants.

But thankfully, there is a remedy for such ills. The remedy is cupcakes from Happy Day Bakery.

ALL OF THE CUPCAKES
Yes, that house was edible
For just €2 (or €1,70 if you have a Madrid Cultura y Arte card...yeaaaah, discounts!) you can drown your sorrows in a carrot cupcake with dulce de leche frosting or a heaping slice of raspberry cheesecake. Needless to say, I've been here more times than I care to disclose on here...

Happy Day is in the neighborhood of Malasaña, which I have fallen in love with. It's filled with bookstores, vintage shops, record stores, and cute cafés. It's also the only part in town where I don't look so odd wearing cut off Levi 501s and moccasins instead of diaper-like harem pants and sky-high wedges.

Justin would fit right in in Malasaña too--there's a Spanish comic book shop!

Right down the block from Happy Day is my favorite coffee shop, Lolina Vintage Cafe. It has free wifi and cute vintage furniture, and the likes of Elvis, Buddy Holly, and the Shangri-Las are always playing over the soundsystem. They also make DELICIOUS tostas and brownies with ice cream :)

Fanta Limón is the most delicious ever. Also, check out that rad wallpaper!

They keep all the doors open all the time so it's always sunny and breezy
Tosta with sobrasada (sausage + tomato), brie, honey, and herbs
In addition to stuffing my face, I also get around to some cultural activities. A couple weeks ago I went to see the the Cuban National Ballet's production of Swan Lake (El lago de los cisnes). It was directed by Alicia Alonso, an extremely famous ballerina who is now 90 years old. You should skim her Wikipedia page (which I linked in her name) because she's had a really remarkable life. I know my ballet enthusiast mom and aunt are jealous I got to see such a legend in the flesh!



The video above is Alonso herself dancing the role of Swan in 1958. The choreography I saw for the pas de deux was almost identical, including the 2034839 fuettes.

 I also went to the circus! I had absolutely no idea what to expect, as it was an impulse decision, but I hoped it wasn't full of abused tigers and creepy clowns. Thankfully, there were neither of these things--just incredibly talented acrobats! Photography wasn't allowed, so I had to sneak shots when the music was loud enough to drown out the sound of my shutter.




Looks easy, right?

Later that weekend I went to the Museo Prado. I have a museum pass that lets me into all state-owned museums fo' free. I spent two and a half hours wandering around the galleries. I got to see one of my favorite works of art (and the subject of my study abroad application essay), The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch.

Where's Waldo?
It's a MASSIVE oil-on-wood triptych (7 x 12 feet), and definitely the most horrifying/captivating thing you've ever seen in your life. I took advantage of my height (or lack thereof) and stood right in front of each panel for at least ten minutes, taking the time to notice all the tiny, bizarre details.

La entrada Jerónimo
Statue of Diego Velázquez

I've really been enjoying just wandering around Madrid. I have a monthly metro pass that gives me unlimited rides, so it's easy to wander to wherever I'd like. I've never been a dependent person, but in high school I was definitely that girl who would never go to the bathroom alone. In college, I didn't work up the courage to eat alone until spring semester sophomore year. At home, sometimes I go shopping alone, but before I got to Madrid, I'd never eaten a meal (outside of my house) alone.

But since being here, I've learned to genuinely enjoy alone time. I can walk at my own pace through museums and read every single placard if I want to without worrying about getting separated from a group or slowing down a friend. While walking down the street, I can wander in and out of every other store on the block, and I can pick the tiny window table at the café for prime people-watching. And if I need to ask the shop clerk if they have those shoes in a size 37, I can't plead with my friend to ask for me because the clerk looks bitchy--I have to be confident in my language skills.

And the best part is that if I get a cupcake from Happy Days two days in a row, no one is there to judge me--well, now the secret's out...

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

College is hard.

And it's significantly harder when all your classes are Spanish, and you're expected to have an extensive base knowledge of Spanish culture and history, but you really only know the bare minimum--Civil War, republicans vs. nationalist rebels, Franco's dictatorship...

I've been staring at this stupid journalism assignment for upwards of four hours now because I just don't understand the nuances of the language or the history enough to analyze what I think I'm being asked to analyze.

I'm going to have to write something eventually, and I'm going to hand it to the professor tomorrow and he's going to take it back to his office and look at it and shake his head in confusion at my awkward grammar and complete misunderstanding of the prompt, and probably wonder why I thought I could take an advanced-level, full-immersion university class in the foreign language of a foreign country.

Wish I could tell you why, professor-whose-name-I-don't-know-because-I'm-that-lost-in-class, but I just don't know.




Monday, October 3, 2011

Free champagne, homemade paella, and Picasso.


I realized I haven't really been posting about anything other than the trips I take, so here's the slightly less exciting stuff I've been up to since arriving in Madrid.

October 7th was Vogue Fashion's Night Out in Madrid, held in the swanky barrio of Salamanca (not to be confused with the actual city of Salamanca). All the stores along the main drag in Salamanca had DJs and bars, in an attempt to get people drunk so they would be highly overpriced clothing. My girlfriends and I got dressed up and headed out to dance in jewelry stores, keep an eye out for models and celebs, and score free champagne.

Sweet graphic design, bro.

Champagne in L'Occitane. If you don't speak French, that rhymes nicely
In a shoe store where the cheapest pair cost a minimum of €300
I tried to be fashionable but my host mom made me wear a cardigan...

DJ in the jewelry store
That following weekend, I had my first chocolate con churros--at 3:30 am, no less. There are a couple chocolaterías that are open 24 hours a day, because there are three traditional times to get chocolate con churros: for breakfast, for a late afternoon snack, and at the wee hours of the morning when you're sick of clubbing and just want some damn food.

From San Ginés Chocolateria
 You might be flinching at the amount of sugar in this "meal"...and it's certainly rich, but it's nothing like American hot chocolate or American (read: Disneyland) churros. The churros aren't sweetened, so even though they're very fatty, you can eat much a lot more than you could the cinnamon sugar-coated Mexican type...which is highly dangerous. And the hot chocolate is not to be confused with hot cocoa. It's sweetened, but not too much, and is incredibly thick--like you're eating melted semisweet chocolate. So it was pretty much heaven in a cup, but so rich, I couldn't finish--and if I don't finish eating something fatty and chocolatey and delicious, you know it's an intense food.

That same weekend, Pepa (one of the monitoras) invited the whole Vassar-Wesleyan group to her family's mountain house for an afternoon of swimming and paella-eating. I've known Pepa for two years because she was the Spanish Language Fellow at Vassar my freshman year, and I took a conversation class with her. Anyway, the mountain house is in a town called Robledo about 1 hour away from Madrid. I couldn't take pictures because the winding roads had my wildly carsick, but the sierras (mountains) of Madrid look so much like the mountains of Santa Barbara, it was insane. Oak trees, chaparral, everything. Every time we got to a viewpoint, I kept expecting to see the Pacific Ocean--but instead, I just saw the sprawling grey blur of Madrid.


Sammi, me, Danielle, Lucy, Kelsey, & Kat

[photo cred: Kat]

Pepa, master paella chef

The first paella I ever ate was made for me by Pepa at Vassar. She apologized profusely for it, saying she wasn't used to making it on a stove and with such a small pan. I had no idea how else you would make it...and now, two years later, I got to see Pepa in action making real Spanish paella--in a pan the size of a toboggan, perched on top of its own special grill. She didn't use a recipe or measuring cups, just threw everything into the pan, but it turned out perfectly.

Chunks of mystery meat...mm!


Get in my bellllllly

The best part of the afternoon was when Pepa's brother?cousin?friend? broke out his guitar and started playing beautiful classic Spanish music. It was late afternoon and a perfect 80 degrees and the sun coming in through the trees made everything look golden.

Pepa singing along
The next day I went to the Reina Sofia museum with some friends solely to see Picasso's Guernica.

Super rad external elevators
 Photography isn't allowed inside the museum, so I don't have any photos of the painting, but that's what Google Image Search is for, right?

The second I walked into the room where Guernica is housed, I got chills and tears came to my eyes. It’s so incredibly huge and so incredibly powerful. No photo can do justice to the raw emotion Picasso put into every brushstroke. That’s what’s so different about seeing paintings in real life—the brush stroke is what really speaks about the artist’s thought process, the artist’s mental state. Some parts of the painting are thin, bare, as if Picasso was painting as rashly as possible. In others the paint drips down from lines, and in others you can see ghostly sketches that weren’t painted over thoroughly enough. And curiously enough, the horse in the center is the only figure that’s contoured; it’s also the most re-worked figure, as the first version of the painting had its head upside down, grotesquely contorted.

All that emotional art analysis made us hungry, so we grabbed tapas at Estado Puro, a restaurant famous for its innovative take on classic tapas dishes. We drank the best sangria I've ever had and grubbed on eggplant with honey-sherry sauce, mussels with a delicious mystery cayenne sauce, ham croquetas, and fried potatoes topped with chives and roe.

Eating the fruit slices at the end is the best part of sangria
The roe-topped potatoes
My daily life here is infinitely more exciting than my life in Santa Barbara or Poughkeepsie. I love living in a city--although at times it can be stressful and overwhelming, there is always something to do. Parks, cafes, museums, afternoons in the countryside...there's a high possibility I might never go back to the states...!