Showing posts with label madrid. Show all posts
Showing posts with label madrid. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Phrase of the day: viejo verde

Literal translation: green old person
Colloquial translation: dirty old man

"Odio que las calles de Madrid sean llenas de viejos verdes que me echan muchos piropos."

"I hate that the streets of Madrid are filled with dirty old men who always catcall me."
 In Spanish, green is the color related to sex (a revista verde is a dirty magazine, and a chiste verde is a dirty joke), so a pervy old dude is a viejo verde. And they are EVERYWHERE. I can't go a day without some disgusting pig old enough to be my grandfather sneering and calling me things like guapa (beautiful) or rubia (blondie...yeah, I don't get that one either).

I think I'm going to translate this pamphlet into Spanish and start shoving it in their faces:


Monday, October 10, 2011

The ballet, the circus, and the Prado. And cupcakes. A lot of cupcakes.

Living in a foreign country and going to school in a foreign language is stressful. One night you might be given nothing but brussels sprouts and bacon for dinner; one morning you might have to inexplicably switch commuter trains and accidentally leave your folder (filled with homework and notes) on the seat next to you; one afternoon you might be informed by your sociology professor that you have to conduct a 14-page interview with not one, not two, but THREE illegal immigrants.

But thankfully, there is a remedy for such ills. The remedy is cupcakes from Happy Day Bakery.

ALL OF THE CUPCAKES
Yes, that house was edible
For just €2 (or €1,70 if you have a Madrid Cultura y Arte card...yeaaaah, discounts!) you can drown your sorrows in a carrot cupcake with dulce de leche frosting or a heaping slice of raspberry cheesecake. Needless to say, I've been here more times than I care to disclose on here...

Happy Day is in the neighborhood of Malasaña, which I have fallen in love with. It's filled with bookstores, vintage shops, record stores, and cute cafés. It's also the only part in town where I don't look so odd wearing cut off Levi 501s and moccasins instead of diaper-like harem pants and sky-high wedges.

Justin would fit right in in Malasaña too--there's a Spanish comic book shop!

Right down the block from Happy Day is my favorite coffee shop, Lolina Vintage Cafe. It has free wifi and cute vintage furniture, and the likes of Elvis, Buddy Holly, and the Shangri-Las are always playing over the soundsystem. They also make DELICIOUS tostas and brownies with ice cream :)

Fanta Limón is the most delicious ever. Also, check out that rad wallpaper!

They keep all the doors open all the time so it's always sunny and breezy
Tosta with sobrasada (sausage + tomato), brie, honey, and herbs
In addition to stuffing my face, I also get around to some cultural activities. A couple weeks ago I went to see the the Cuban National Ballet's production of Swan Lake (El lago de los cisnes). It was directed by Alicia Alonso, an extremely famous ballerina who is now 90 years old. You should skim her Wikipedia page (which I linked in her name) because she's had a really remarkable life. I know my ballet enthusiast mom and aunt are jealous I got to see such a legend in the flesh!



The video above is Alonso herself dancing the role of Swan in 1958. The choreography I saw for the pas de deux was almost identical, including the 2034839 fuettes.

 I also went to the circus! I had absolutely no idea what to expect, as it was an impulse decision, but I hoped it wasn't full of abused tigers and creepy clowns. Thankfully, there were neither of these things--just incredibly talented acrobats! Photography wasn't allowed, so I had to sneak shots when the music was loud enough to drown out the sound of my shutter.




Looks easy, right?

Later that weekend I went to the Museo Prado. I have a museum pass that lets me into all state-owned museums fo' free. I spent two and a half hours wandering around the galleries. I got to see one of my favorite works of art (and the subject of my study abroad application essay), The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch.

Where's Waldo?
It's a MASSIVE oil-on-wood triptych (7 x 12 feet), and definitely the most horrifying/captivating thing you've ever seen in your life. I took advantage of my height (or lack thereof) and stood right in front of each panel for at least ten minutes, taking the time to notice all the tiny, bizarre details.

La entrada Jerónimo
Statue of Diego Velázquez

I've really been enjoying just wandering around Madrid. I have a monthly metro pass that gives me unlimited rides, so it's easy to wander to wherever I'd like. I've never been a dependent person, but in high school I was definitely that girl who would never go to the bathroom alone. In college, I didn't work up the courage to eat alone until spring semester sophomore year. At home, sometimes I go shopping alone, but before I got to Madrid, I'd never eaten a meal (outside of my house) alone.

But since being here, I've learned to genuinely enjoy alone time. I can walk at my own pace through museums and read every single placard if I want to without worrying about getting separated from a group or slowing down a friend. While walking down the street, I can wander in and out of every other store on the block, and I can pick the tiny window table at the café for prime people-watching. And if I need to ask the shop clerk if they have those shoes in a size 37, I can't plead with my friend to ask for me because the clerk looks bitchy--I have to be confident in my language skills.

And the best part is that if I get a cupcake from Happy Days two days in a row, no one is there to judge me--well, now the secret's out...

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

¡Hola, Madrid!

I'll spare you the grisly details, but I woke up on Monday morning--the morning of our departure from Santiago--feeling deathly ill. Nine days of eating Galician food had finally caught up to my American stomach. I really can't think of a worse combination than illness and airplanes, but I grinned grimaced and bore lugging three suitcases through Santiago's airport, paying an ungodly amount of money for my checked bags (damn this horrible euro-->dollar exchange rate!), and boarding an incredibly tiny Iberia plane. You know a plane is small when I, at not even 5'4", complain of not having enough leg room. The flight left half an hour late, but thankfully I was able to sleep for almost the entire flight, and I felt slightly less queasy upon landing...but that might be because the nausea was replaced by extreme nerves. In the airport I said goodbye to the people I'd been living with all week, and even though I knew I'd see them the next morning and probably every day for the next four months, it was bittersweet. I found the taxi stand, slid into the backseat of a cab, and was off to meet my host mother, Vicki. All I had was an address and her name. I really can't think of a more awkward situation than showing up at a stranger's house, 100+ lbs of luggage in hand, looking greenish and sleep-deprived, and saying "Hi! I'm going to live with you for the next four months! Please like me!"

The awkwardness only got worse when I arrived at my apartment building and realized I had no idea how to "call up" to the apartment to be buzzed in. They make it look sooo easy on Seinfeld, but it's actually really confusing. Do you hold the button to talk, like a walkie talkie? Or is it connected once you press it, like a phone? (Turns out it's the latter, but I just kept jabbing and stammering until I heard the door click.)  Vicki, my host mom, met me downstairs, and we somehow managed to fit both of us and all my suitcases in the tiny elevator. She lives on the seventh floor (which is technically the eighth, because the first floor is counted as zero). It's the top floor, something I found extremely exciting, as I've lived in single-story houses all my life. The apartment is small but homey and cozy, filled with souvenirs from Vicki's travels. She showed me to my room, which is small but has two big windows, and is connected to my own private bathroom! This'll be the first time in my life I haven't had to share a bathroom with smelly boys. The toilet seat will always be down, and there will never be stubble in the sink. Seriously, this might be my favorite thing about the country so far...but anyway, my jaw absolutely dropped when Vicki took me out to la terraza (the terrace), which stretches the length of the apartment. Half of it is in the sun, and Vicki grows judiasverdes (green beans), pimientos verdes (green bell peppers), and tomates (tomatoes...that was a real hard one to guess, huh?) The other half is covered and has a couch, a table, and chairs. That's where Vicki and I eat dinner every night, and breakfast when it's not too chilly. But the best part of all this is the VIEW! If you stand in just the right place on my back porch at home, you can kind of see the mountains (but you mostly see a huge, ugly, white engineering building.) But here in my Madrid apartment, THIS is my view...

The clouds are INSANE here.
I'm obsessed with it. Vicki laughs at me because every time I go out there, I immediately walk over to the railing and just look at the view. A night shot will be coming shortly...

Tuesday morning was our first day going to la uni (short for Universidad Carlos III de Madrid). It's a loooooong commute. In high school, I'd complain about the 15 min drive; at Vassar, I complain about a 10 minute walk. But my commute here takes almost exactly 60 min. I leave my apartment, walk a block to the metro station (and I'm lucky it's only a block), then take linea 1 to Atocha-Renfe station (yes, the one that got bombed in 2003), where I catch el cercanías (the commuter train). I take el cercanías to the Las Margaritas stop in the suburb of Getafe, and then walk about half a mile to the UC3M campus. Thankfully, I have an abono, a pre-paid pass that allows me unlimited rides on all public transportation in Madrid. Also thankfully, the metro system here is insanely wonderful! The slogan is "Madrid Metro: uno de los mejores metros en el mundo. Usálo." (The Mardid Metro is one of the best in the world. Use it.) It's clean, usually not foul-smelling, totally devoid of homeless people, and it's almost impossible to board the wrong train or get lost because all lines run through at least one major transfer station. The signage is excellent, and every line runs in both directions (you just have to make sure you get on the right side of the track). Everything about it is completely unlike the NYC Metro, which never ceases to leave me stressed and broke after accidentally boarding an express train to Queens at 10:30 pm...but let's not talk about that.




The blissfully peaceful metro station

Day 1 at UC3M consisted of lots of waiting, since like everything this program organizes, the day was poorly scheduled. We split up into groups to take language placement exams--one written, one multiple-choice, and one oral. Despite sleeping through most of the multiple-choice exam (getting back into school-mode is really rough for me, okay?!), I got placed into the second-highest language group, Avanzado Alta A--so I'm pretty happy about that! For lunch, the monitoras took us to this absolutely unreal sandwich shop. I wish I had pictures, but there are signs everywhere asking for no photos to be taken...what killjoys! But anyway, the interior of the shop is entirely covered in pieces of brightly colored construction paper reading "El de ____": "El de Olivia, El de Katie, El de Pedro," etc., meaning "Olivia's Sandwich, Katie's Sandwich, Pedro's Sandwich," etc. I ended up ordering "El de Nech," which was chicken, caramelized onions, avocado, and brie on pan integral (wheat bread). I almost fainted from happiness as I watched one of the two ladies who work there--angels in aprons, for sure--pick up a perfectly ripe avocado, slice it in half, pit it and peel it, then spread an entire halve onto the freshly toasted bread. The whole sandwich only cost €5, less than half of the €11 we're allotted daily for lunch. I have a feeling I'm gonna be going back to this place a LOT. And by a lot, I mean multiple times a day. (This is my inner Liz Lemon speaking...)


After we finished at UC3M, we did a brief spin around a couple of Madrid's barrios.


This is the symbol of Madrid...the statue is tiny and super anticlimactic, pushed all the way to one end of the Puerta del Sol
La Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor